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Seafood Cuisine Restaurant at the Shangri-La Hotel.

Tel: (971 4) 405 2703.

Address: Shk Zayed Road, Dubai.

Taxi Directions: Shangri-La Hotel.

In a city where many restaurants have all the atmosphere of an out-of-favour morgue, Amwaj boasts chatter, plenty of people and that all-too-elusive factor, ambience. Virtually every table was full when we last visited, always a good sign, but intelligent table spacing and moody low lighting means the setting is paradoxically intimate.

Chose from a menu that obviously delights in juxtaposing a seemingly random selection of ingredients. For example, a huge mound of New Zealand mussels comes bathed in a creamy Sambuca sauce that complements the dish perfectly.

The highlight of the mains is the poached reef fish, cooked in a sweet raspberry and coconut sauce and adorned with a host of flavoursome extras like the crunchy Vegemite-braised scallion. The local hammour is a safe bet; juicy and firm and delivered in an understated garlic, lemon and herb sauce.

Sadly, the dessert menu lets Amwaj down. The chocolate ravioli, while thick and luxurious, is stingily portioned, and the berry consommé is bitter; its floating chunks of mascarpone cheese only serves to make it look like a badly-shaken cocktail. Nevertheless, it’s worth a trip to Amwaj to sample the innovative starters and main courses while enjoying the kind of dining experience a good restaurant can offer.

Amwaj, Shangri-La Hotel. Taxi Shangri-La. Open 12 noon-3pm, 7pm- 12 midnight Sun-Fri, closed Sat. Average price of meal for two with glass of house wine Dhs500-600.

 

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